Saturday 5 April 2014

Berlin finds: Rixdorf

Things are moving quickly here in Berlin. Gone are the days of massive flats, empty and waiting to be lived in. Gone are reasonable rents, illegal ping-pong bars and bullet-holed facades. Well, almost gone. But it won't be long now.

Clubs that have been open since the fall of the Berlin wall are closing to make way for chi chi shops, posh apartment blocks and media companies. When you're looking for a room in a WG (shared housing) you have to beat twenty others and still pay a premium price. One of Berlin's most wonderful traits, its greenness, is steadily disappearing to make way for, yes, more expensive flats.

As they say, all was better in the olden days.


Imagine how chuffed I am to be living very near one of the few proper authentic bits of the city still around. In the middle of Neukölln, there's a village green housing the oldest blacksmith in town plus a garage for old-fashioned horse drawn carriages. The surrounding town houses are gorgeous, spacious and light. The local thrift shop is enormous and filled with stuff no one in their right mind ever would buy - it's all just too dusty and disgusting. But what a joy to rummage through it all. Here in Rixdorf, the annual hay bale rolling competition and the Weinachtsmarkt transport you back in time. Squint and you can imagine yourself a hundred years ago. It's just lovely.





It's easy too: just take a walk on Richardplatz and the surrounding streets. Have a chai tea and some cake at Barini, opposite the thrift store, while you're at it. Buy tickets for a puppet show in the theatre next door and visit the figure skating shop, just because there is one. This is Berlin at its best.



Alt-Rixdorfer Weihnachtsmarkt, second advent weekend in december, Richardplatz, 12055 Berlin
BariniBöhmische Straße 46, 12055 Berlin, 030 25059718, website
Berger WohnungsauflösungBöhmische Str. 13, 12055 Berlin, 030 68224987
Central Rixdorf TheaterK&K VolkArt, Böhmische Straße 46, 12055 Berlin, 030 26378812, website
Eisprinzessinshop, Richardstraße 76, Berlin, website
Rixdorfer SchmiedeBürgerstr. 1712347 Berlin, 030 6942232, website

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