Eat a lot (not): Bretzel Company, Neukölln

I like writing about things I like, but unfortunately this bretzel at the Bretzel Company wasn't one of them. After having been taught the German art of bretzel loving by a huge bellied psychiatrist in Bavaria, I had high hopes for this place. Was this going to be the best bretzel experience to be had in Berlin? 
 
But come 4pm on a Thursday afernoon, what was supposed to be a fresh bretzel made 'the old artisan way' was dry, sawdusty and pretty horrible. Shame, shame shame ... shame on Bretzel Company.

Bretzel Company, Lenaustrasse 10, 12047 Berlin, website

Eat a lot: Café-Restaurant Louis, Rixdorf

When Gordon Ramsay talks, I don't tend to listen. I think it's the way he bossily says 'Yes?!' after everything that makes me want to stick my fingers in my ears and go: 'La la laaaaa...' at the top of my voice.

But you only have to watch one or two of his Kitchen Nightmares shows to pick up on his golden rule: restaurants should keep their menu simple. Offer less not more, is his most repeated piece of advice. (That, and to strip the interior, regardless of what the decor is.)

Louis on the Rixdorfer Platz manages to ignore both of Ramsay's rules wholeheartedly. Their menu boasts a staggering 209 items, nealy all of them carnivore specials. Despite all these dishes on offer, everyone seems to come for the same thing: the Riesenschnitzel. And for good reason. It really is enormous, but it's so crispy, so perfectly salty and so delicious that you go home with a doggy bag that isn't nearly as full as you'd anticipated.

We gave it our best shot. Then we took the remainder and fed it to our twins. 'Wurst!' they shouted - their enthousiastic response to all things meaty. And then they ate the lot.

Café-Restaurant Louis, Richardplatz 5, 12055 Berlin, 030 6810210, website, open daily from 11am till 11pm

Eat a lot: La Bolognina, Neukölln

This is where I go when I fancy a take away lunch or some premade fresh pasta. I know it's homemade, by lads who know what they're doing and do it well. Everything is fresh, delicious and, when you choose to eat in, perfectly cooked. The portions are decent too.

 

Fresh pasta in the making

 Last time I went they had a choice of spinach and ricotta ravioli, tagliatelle and wholegrain strozzapreti with a tomato, pesto or butter and sage sauce.They also sell Italian olive oil per litre (€14) which I know is a hit with the Italians in the area. I would have taken a bottle, had my wallet not been a few euro short (no card payments here).

Perfect ravioli filled with spinach, ricotta and a dusting of nutmeg

Helion Torrone candy: nothing but almonds, sugar and candied fruit

It's simply not worth making my own ravioli when I have these guys on my doorstep.

La Bolognina, Donaustraße 107, Berlin, 01577 8712004, facebook page, open Mon, Wed and Thu 12-7pm, Tue, Fri and Sat 12-10pm.

Mural

Eat a lot: Das Lokal, Mitte

Some restaurants deserve a visit based on their reputation alone. Lokal is one of those restaurants. It opened in 2012 so it's hardly new, and has been reviewed by everyone and their cousin. My friend sends all her Dutch visitors there so I reckon half of my countrymen have been there before me. I could have easily skipped it and pretended to have 'been there, done that'. But I hadn't, so I didn't.

 

The menu was the sort of minimalist affair you see a lot nowadays, showcasing just a list of ingredients. The focus is on what's in your dish, rather than the way it will be prepared for you. This may be great if you have an allergy, but if you'd like to know whether your chosen food will be served raw or boiled, pureed or jellied, you're lost.

All the 'now' ingredients were there though: offal, game, bitter leaves, funky new grains and various artichokes and root vegetables.

I went for the buttermilk pancake (€16), which came with a promise of emmer wheat, rote bete, knollenziest, rotkohl and chicoree. The actual plate was stacked high with food and seemed to contain loads more than was listed. It made for a tasty, large, nutritious meal that lacked a little in finesse and looks, but made up for it in flavour and adventure. It was certainly innovative for a vegetarian main.

Not quite what I was expecting when I ordered the buttermilk pancake

The choice of desserts was also a simplistic one: two sweet options, one cheese and no chocolate. No chocolate? I was so discombobulated I went for the cheese (€10), which I then had to pick & mix from a list on a school blackboard: blue cheese, bergkäse, Gouda, a sheep's brie and goat's cheese among them.

The pick & mix cheese board

So now I've been there, done that. I'll happily send visitors to Lokal knowing that it will fill stomachs and make for a great Berliner experience. And if they put some chocolate on the menu, I may even come back.


Das Lokal, Linienstraße 160, 10115 Berlin, 03028449500, website, open Mon - Sun from 5.30pm

Drink a lot: Cafe Atlantic, Kreuzberg

In the always pleasing Bergmannkiez, I found this drinking hole the other day, just when I was in need of one. Cafe Atlantic is one of the all-in-one places that are open seemingly all the time, serving whatever you need whenever you need it: a decent breakfast, a good choice of coffees, dinner, a sneaky one after work or a proper session at the weekend. The only thing that's missing is a dance floor. 

Cafe Atlantic, Bergmannstraße 100, 10961 Berlin, 0306919292, website, open Mon-Sun 9am - 2am.
They also do breakfast and dinner.

Eat a lot: Indian ayurvedic street food, Kreuzkölln

Every Tuesday and Saturday it's in our Kiez: this funky looking food stall selling vegan ayurvedic Indian street food. It comes with a chef that looks the part: turban on his head, white pointy Sikh beard and a somewhat impatient demeanour. The banner on his trailer advertises colourful pictures of dishes he doesn't actually sell and cute looking Indian children. The whole thing is a blast of colour and garishness in the polished world of the hipster street food market.

Our man sells only a few dishes (the secret of a good street food stall if you ask me): vegetable curry (€4), vegetable samosa's (€2,50), lentil soup (€2,50) and pappadums (€1). When he runs out, he runs out. Since I decided to have lunch at 1.30pm, the curry was gone, but the soup and the last few handmade samosa's were mine.

The flavours were fantastic: vibrant, fresh and spicy without too much heat. If you like it hot hot hot, have a teaspoon of the green chili relish at the till and you're sorted. Don't skip the samosa's, if only for the sauce, which should come with it's own DOP (made in Berlin), it's so good.

With summer coming, this is the place where you'll find me for a healthy lunch: at the most cheerful stand on the market.

Indian ayurvedic market stall, Tuesdays at the market on Schönleinstraße, corner Lachmannstraße, Saturdays at the bio market on Herrfurthplatz.

What to do in St Petersburg, apart from the obvious

St Petersburg travel guides tell you, quite literally, all the same things. And yes, of course you peer at the masters at the Hermitage, marvel at the mosaics of the Church on Spilled Blood, saunter along Nevsky Prospekt and eat borscht. But what else? Here are five of the things we found worthwhile:

1) Go into shops

From the posh Eliseyev deli on Nevsky Prospekt 56 to the small local shops, you'll find nothing but gems. Even if the shop turns out rubbish, you will have had a 'real Russian experience'. Buy something you like the look of and try it. By doing so we stumbled upon this lovely milky ice cream popsicle and a pot noodle type ready meal that, by adding some hot water, turned into a tasty potato mash with croutons and dill.

Local fruit and veg shop on Pravdy street

Sweet somethings at the Eliseyev shop

St Petersburg, but not in a nutshell

If there is one thing completely impossible, it's fitting St Petersburg into a nutshell. The city is vast, the streets are wide and royal and impressive. I don't know why I was expecting it to be quaint and cute and PEDESTRIANISED. Huge mistake.

Quaintest street we could find. Though still not pedestrianised.

Go to St Petersburg and you will walk. A lot. And travel. A lot. This was the one of the things none of the online guides mentioned. Most of the things they did mention, however, turned out to be incorrect. 

(Which was a relief, mostly. I got a bit miffed, you see, reading everywhere that St Petersburg is an unfriendly place, having booked this trip based on a romantic notion of snow covered Russian orthodox church rooftops and grand (yet pedestrianised!) streets. This was the place I had always wanted to visit, and the first holiday-without-twins for me, and I was going to be barked at by everyone?) 

 

Russian orthodox church rooftops, snow optional.

So, as a counter-intelligence exercise, I have made a list of the things travel guides tell you about St Petersburg that are not true.

A trio of carrot soups

What to do with a stack of beautiful, leftover multi-coloured carrots?

I couldn't stand the thought of mixing them up, creating a brown, unintelligible mush, ruining their vibrant colours. Having just been to Pauly Saal, the Michelin starred restaurant in Mitte, where they served pumpkin with pumpkin and pumpkin, the way high end restaurants tend to do, I decided to go for a trio of carrot soups. 

Eat a lot: RisOtto, Mitte

I'm feeling kind of special today.

It turns out I'm living in the city that houses the very first risotto restaurant in the world. Who knew?

I wonder if it's true. (It seems highly unlikely. The first ever risotto restaurant, well, ever?)

I wonder if it's any good. (Though risotto in the average restaurant is almost never a total disaster, it's usually not particularly good either. Ever since I discovered even celebrity chefs can't get it right on the night (yes, Tom Aikens, I am talking about you and your undercooked attempt), I've stuck to the homemade variety where I can be sure the timing is just so.)

I wonder if the world has gone off risotto, seeing as there was not a single person inside.

If you don't mind, I'll leave it to other people to answer the above questions for me.

RisOtto, Friedrichstraße 115, 10117 Berlin, 0173 7171626, ros-otto.de, open Mon-Fri 11 am - 9pm, Sat 12pm - 6pm