Eat a lot: Clärchens Ballhaus, Mitte

I know it's supposed to be an institution not to be messed with. Berliners are proud of their Ballhaus and it's very easy to see why. A beautiful building in the middle of the middle (Mitte), a large lush garden with pebbled paths, leafy trees to sit under and lightbulb-sized fairy lights. Inside is the actual ballroom, where you invariably end up witnessing a tango dancing class, a wedding party practising waltzes, or, at the very least, a few cute little girls twirling around on the enormous dance floor pretending to be princesses at their debutante ball.

Last year I attended a wedding there, held in the mirrored upper ballroom. It was magical. (Yes, it was me learning to waltz with the rest of the wedding party, and I loved it.) There is no denying the history, grandeur and fairytale-like quality of the place. 

Groom & mates practising their footwork at Clärchens Ballhaus

But is it worth having a meal there? My visit yesterday hardly convinced me. I found the garden full of tourists. There wasn't a single exciting thing on the menu - just general stuff like pizza, pasta and Wiener schnitzel. I could have been anywhere in Berlin, heck, anywhere is Germany even. My rocket salad was literally that: a pile of rocket leaves, a thick grating of Parmesan and, inexplicably, three whole tomatoes. To accompany my salad, I got a basket of dry sliced French bread. Like I said: not convinced. (Today I had lunch at Lavanderia Vecchia, and they beat the whole Ballroom experience hands down with their bread alone.)

With that level of generalness and at those Mitte prices, I would opt to walk in, have a peek, soak up the historic feel and head out again, to one of the countless alternative bars and restaurants in the area. You won't be missing a thing.

Clärchens Ballhaus, Auguststraße 24, 10117 Berlin, 0302829295, ballhaus.de, open daily from 10am