Yesterday I met my friend Anna for lunch at
Oliv. Rumour had it that Oliv's quite good, and Google Reviews confirmed those
rumours, giving the place a 4.2 out of 5 stars.
Promises promises.
The venue, both outside and in, has a
déjà vu feeling about it. The olive trees and plants near the door reminded me of a
London flower shop. The 'no prams' sign and steep coffee prices (€3 for a flat
white) made me wonder if I had wandered into a newly opened The Barn by
mistake. The whole of it suggested a certain worldly sophistication that seems harder
and harder to get away from, in Mitte or elsewhere in the city.
(Anna and I wondered whether the 'no prams'
thing is a clever way to keep babies out rather than prams. We brought one in (a
baby, not a pram) and weren't sent away or looked at funny, so maybe in the
case of Oliv, it is a space issue, after all.)
Wooden blocks serve as seats, the kitchen
is open for all to see staff doing their thing (or in our case, dropping their
wares on several occasions). The menu, in German and English, was minimalist
and non-specific. Sure, you pay €10,40 for a plate of lettuce and cold
vegetables, but no details on the kinds of vegetables or the types of lettuce
leaves were given. When I asked what kinds of quiche they had, the answer was
brief too: tomato, broccoli or courgette.
Call me old-fashioned, but with prices like
that, I like to know what I am getting.
When peeking inside the kitchen, I realised
the minimalist description wasn't actually far off. They were making quiches (a
tomato and an aubergine one) and indeed, the base and filling looked identical,
with a simple topping of a single veg on top. Minimalist indeed. But then, why
tinker with a good quiche?
The quiche tasted fine. A buttery base, a
nicely seasoned filling and some broccoli on top. Nothing more, nothing less.
For dessert we had more flat whites, a German crumbly Blechkuchen with plum and
an apple crumble in a little glass pot. They were fine too, though not above
the level of an average Backshop. I didn't ask how much they cost, just to make
sure it wouldn't spoil my appetite for something sweet.
It's hard to rate places like Oliv. They're nice enough and clearly appeal to the Google crowd, hence the 4.2 stars online. But they
are so familiar, in every way, that you forget what you had and how it tasted
as soon as you walk out the door. Actually, I am sure I have been to the exact
same place before, but cannot remember if it was called Oliv then. What I will
remember, this time, is the bill. There is much better food to be had for
that price in this great town. All you have to do is ignore the obvious.
Oliv, Münzstraße 8, 10178 Berlin, 030 89206540, website, open Mon-Fri 8.30am-7pm, Sat 9.30am-7pm, Sun 10am-6pm, cash only
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