The area, on the studenty side of Chiang
Mai, is renowned for its good coffee. And with Chiang Mai being the coffee
capital of Thailand, that's saying something. But still... Driving there at
noon on a sunny October day, through a labyrinth of dusty roads and smelly
exhaust fumes breathed out by a thousand fellow mopeds, I couldn't quite find
what I was hoping for: coffee heaven.
(My quest reminded me of driving around Los
Angeles, looking for the city centre. I couldn't quite find it then either.) I
found a bakery selling the most divine, buttery milk buns. I found a little
restaurant with an outdoor kitchen serving blue noodles. But a cute coffee
place to linger away a few hours? Not in sight.
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The milk bun factory |
There were coffee places all right. Big,
McDonald's style set-ups, with overhead menu's, meal deals and stark interiors.
Places too empty to contemplate actually sitting down in. Who wants to drink
their coffee alone, in a vast space, without a buzz or any people watching to
be done?
When I was about ready to drive off again,
mission unsuccessful apart from the cardboard box full of milky buns I scored,
I passed it: the coffee place I was hoping to find. Along a busy road, in the
parking lot of a rather awful residential building that also housed the café's
toilet (a bit of a trek, admittedly) - it was hardly the ideal location. But
inside I found an oasis of air con coolness, Thai quiet busy-ness and free
wifi. In the middle of the café, a tree was protruding through the ceiling.
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It's bird! It's a plane! No, it's a massive tree trunk |
The
coffees were made to perfection, with an eye for detail that only the Asians
seem to possess.
The place was filled with young people
working on laptops or having informal meetings. I felt a pang of regret at not
having my laptop with me nor having any work to do. This would be a
wonderful office away from home. (Here I was, on holiday, wishing I was
working... What was going on?) It turned out to be my favourite Chiang Mai
hangout. I did the only thing I could and wiled away a few consecutive mornings
there, slowly sipping my coffee to make it last. With a milky bun on the side.
Roast Niyom Coffee, Siri Mangkalajam Road, Chiang Mai, Thailand, facebook